The Truma FrostControl valve serves as an automatic safety and drain mechanism for boilers in cold temperatures. Its primary purpose is to prevent freezing and potential damage to the boiler and water system by opening and emptying the boiler when temperatures drop to around 3°C. This action helps to prevent the water inside the boiler from freezing, which could lead to expansion and potentially cause cracks or other damage to the system.
In essence, the Truma FrostControl valve helps to ensure the proper functioning and longevity of the boiler by safeguarding it against the harmful effects of freezing temperatures. This can be particularly important in motorhomes or other applications where boilers are used for heating or hot water, as freezing can cause significant disruptions and costly repairs.
The Truma FrostControl valve is designed to operate without electricity. It is a mechanical device that utilizes temperature-sensitive components to open and drain the boiler when temperatures drop to a certain level, typically around 3°C. This means that the valve's operation is based on the physical properties of its components and does not rely on an external power source.
The absence of electricity in its operation makes the Truma FrostControl valve a reliable and energy-efficient solution for protecting boilers from freezing in cold temperatures. It offers a simple and effective way to safeguard your boiler and water system without the need for constant power consumption.
Covering the Truma FrostControl valve to prevent it from activating is not recommended. The valve is designed to provide essential frost protection for your boiler and water system by automatically opening and draining the boiler when temperatures drop to a certain level (usually around 3°C). This action is crucial for preventing freezing and potential damage to the system.
Blocking or covering the valve could compromise its ability to function properly and may lead to freezing and damage. It's important to allow the valve to operate as intended to ensure the safety and functionality of your boiler, especially in cold weather conditions.
If however you find that in very cold conditions it will not reset then you could preheat the habitaion area to around 4°C to avoid this.
To reset the frost valve.
Only when the temperature at the drain valve is above approx. 7 °C can it be closed manually with the pushbutton (Position 2)and the boiler be filled. At temperatures below 7 °C, it is recommended to switch on the vehicle heater in order to warm up the interior.
If the temperature at the drain valve is below about 3 °C, it opens automatically and the pushbutton pops out (Position 3). The water from the boiler drains out through the drainage socket (4).
Various ambient influences can interfere with the opening of the drain valve and the free run-off of the water, and Truma therefore cannot provide a warranty for frost damage.
Turn the rotary switch through 180° until it engages, where by the pushbutton pops out (Position 3). The water from the boiler drains out through the drainage socket (4).
Check whether the rotary switch is set to “Operation” (Position1), i.e. parallel to the water connection and engaged. Close the drain valve by pressing the pushbutton. The pushbutton must engage in the “closed” position (2).Only when the temperature at the drain valve is aboveapprox.7 °C can it be closed manually with the pushbutton (Position 2) and the boiler be filled.
The FrostControl drainage socket (4) must be free of contamination (slush, ice, leaves, etc.) at all times so that the water can drain out easily! No claims may be made under the warranty for frost damage!
The safety/drain valve must be operated regularly (at least twice annually) to remove limescale deposits and to be certain that it is not blocked.
Cause:
Temperature at drain valve below approx. 3 °C. (the drain valve opens automatically at temperatures below approx. 3 °C!)
Remedy:
Switch on vehicle heater if necessary. At temperatures above approx. 7 °C at the drain valve, it can be closed again
Cause:
Temperature at drain valve is below approx. 7 °C.
Remedy:
Switch on vehicle heater if necessary. At temperatures above approx. 7 °C at the drain valve, it can be closed again.
Cause:
Water pressure too high
Remedy:
Check pump pressure (max. 2.8 bar). If the boiler is connected to a central water supply(rural or urban connection), a pressure reducer must be used, which will prevent pressures higher than 2.8 bar from occurring.
Water pump on/off
When it comes to managing resources in a motorhome, the decision of whether to leave the water pump on or off is an important consideration, each with pros and cons.
Pros
Immediate Access to Water: Keeping the water pump on ensures that you have instant access to running water whenever you need it. This is particularly useful for activities such as washing hands, cooking, and cleaning dishes.
Convenience: With the water pump on, you won't have to repeatedly switch it on and off each time you require water. This can make daily tasks more efficient and reduce the hassle of constant adjustments.
Prevention of Contamination: Leaving the pump on can prevent the growth of bacteria and mold in the water lines. The constant circulation of water discourages stagnation and helps maintain better water quality.
Cons
Power Consumption: Keeping the water pump running continuously can lead to increased power consumption, potentially draining the motorhome's battery more quickly. This could be a concern, especially if you're wildcamping or camping without access to electrical hookups.
Noise: Water pumps can be noisy, and leaving it on might contribute to a constant background noise inside the motorhome. This could be a nuisance, particularly during quiet times or while sleeping.
This is just an on / off switch for the outside light, normally positioned just above the habitation door to allow an inviting entrance or often used to illuminate under the awning area in the evening.
This is just an on / off switch for the inside lights. Please note that this also activates the 12-volt supply used in many other power sully points within the habitation area, for example the TV points, if running on 12-volts. In many cases this is left on well using your motorhome and the lights would be controlled by their own switches.
This symbol appears when the motorhome is traverlling with two batteries coupled
This symbol turns on when a diverter NE 185 fuse has blown
The symbol appears when the 230V supply is present (connected to EHU and you have power)
Water pump on/off
When it comes to managing resources in a motorhome, the decision of whether to leave the water pump on or off is an important consideration, each with pros and cons.
Pros
Immediate Access to Water: Keeping the water pump on ensures that you have instant access to running water whenever you need it. This is particularly useful for activities such as washing hands, cooking, and cleaning dishes.
Convenience: With the water pump on, you won't have to repeatedly switch it on and off each time you require water. This can make daily tasks more efficient and reduce the hassle of constant adjustments.
Prevention of Contamination: Leaving the pump on can prevent the growth of bacteria and mold in the water lines. The constant circulation of water discourages stagnation and helps maintain better water quality.
Cons
Power Consumption: Keeping the water pump running continuously can lead to increased power consumption, potentially draining the motorhome's battery more quickly. This could be a concern, especially if you're wildcamping or camping without access to electrical hookups.
Noise: Water pumps can be noisy, and leaving it on might contribute to a constant background noise inside the motorhome. This could be a nuisance, particularly during quiet times or while sleeping.
This is just an on / off switch for the outside light, normally positioned just above the habitation door to allow an inviting entrance or often used to illuminate under the awning area in the evening.
This is just an on / off switch for the inside lights. Please note that this also activates the 12-volt supply used in many other power sully points within the habitation area, for example the TV points, if running on 12-volts. In many cases this is left on well using your motorhome and the lights would be controlled by their own switches.
This symbol appears when the motorhome is traverlling with two batteries coupled
This symbol turns on when a diverter NE 185 fuse has blown
The symbol appears when the 230V supply is present (connected to EHU and you have power)
The Truma CP Plus is a digital control panel used in conjunction with Truma heating and air conditioning systems for Motorhomes and caravans. Truma is a reputable manufacturer of various comfort systems designed for mobile living, particularly in the camping and Motorhome industry.
The Truma CP Plus control panel serves as the user interface for controlling and monitoring the Truma heating system installed in your Motorhome. It offers a range of functions and features to enhance the comfort and convenience of your mobile living space. Here's what the Truma CP Plus typically does:
**Temperature Control:** The CP Plus allows you to set and adjust the desired temperature for your Motorhome's interior. You can specify the temperature you want the heating system to maintain, ensuring a comfortable environment regardless of the outdoor conditions.
**Operating Modes:** The control panel lets you switch between different operating modes, such as heating, cooling (if your system includes air conditioning), and automatic mode. This allows you to adapt to changing weather conditions and your preferences.
**Fan Speed Control:** You can adjust the fan speed to regulate the distribution of heated or cooled air throughout your motorhome. This helps maintain an even and consistent temperature throughout the space.
**Energy Source Selection:** If your Truma system supports multiple energy sources (such as electricity and propane), the CP Plus enables you to choose the desired source based on availability or preference.
**Timer and Programming:** Some Truma systems offer timer and programming functionalities, allowing you to set specific times for heating or cooling to optimize energy usage and comfort.
**System Monitoring:** The CP Plus provides real-time information about the status of your heating or cooling system, including diagnostic codes and alerts in case of issues. This helps you troubleshoot and address any potential problems.
**Integration and Connectivity:** Depending on the model and features, the Truma CP Plus may offer connectivity options, such as smartphone apps or remote control capabilities, allowing you to manage your motorhome's climate control remotely.
**User-Friendly Interface:** The control panel is designed to be user-friendly and intuitive, with easy-to-understand buttons, icons, and menus, making it accessible for both beginners and experienced motorhome enthusiasts.
In summary, the Truma CP Plus is a central control unit that empowers you to personalize and manage the indoor climate of your motorhome with ease. It provides control over temperature settings, fan speeds, energy sources, and operating modes, enhancing your comfort and convenience while on the road or at your favorite camping site. Keep in mind that the specific features and functionalities may vary depending on the Truma system model and configuration you have in your motorhome.
| Label | Description | Function |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Control Panel | The main display to give the user a graphical interface |
| 2 | Status line | Display that provides information about the current operating state or condition of the heating system. It might show whether the heater is on or off, the temperature setting, any error codes or messages |
| 3 | Menu line (top) | On a Truma heating control likely refers to the primary display area where key information or settings are shown. This could include details such as the current temperature, operating mode (e.g., heating, cooling, standby), fan speed, timer settings. |
| 4 | Menu line (bottom) | On a Truma heating control is typically a secondary display area that provides additional information or options related to the heating system. This area might show secondary settings, alerts, maintenance reminders, or other relevant details. |
| 5 | Power supply display (mains supply) | The "mains supply icon" on a Truma heating control typically refers to an indicator that shows whether the heating system is currently connected to an external electrical power source, often referred to as "mains power" |
| 6 | Time switch display | This will show you the start and end times of your program |
| 7 | Settings / Values | This will show you what settings your making in the various functions. |
| 8 | Rotary push button | This button allows you to move to the disired part of the application, select and change the settings by pushing to select and rotating to change or move around the screen |
| 9 | Back button | This back button returns you back to the home screen or exits and menu you are currently in. |
| Fault Code | Cause | Remedy |
|---|---|---|
| #17 | Summer mode with empty water container | Switch heater off and allow to cool. Fill boiler with water |
| #18 | Warm air temperature exceeded: - Not all warm air ducts are connected - Warm air outlets blocked - Circulated air intake blocked | - Check whether the 4 warm air ducts are connected |
| #21 | Room temperature sensor or cable faulty | Inspect the room temperature sensor cable, replace if faulty |
| #24 | Risk of low voltage. Battery voltage is too low < 10.4 V | Charge battery |
| #29 | Frost Control heating element has a short circuit | Disconnect heating element plug from electronic control unit. Replace heating element |
| #42 | Open window above cowl (window switch) | Close window. |
| #43 | Overvoltage > 16.4 V | Check battery voltage / voltage sources such as the charger |
| #44 | Low voltage. Battery voltage is too low < 10.0 V | Charge battery. If necessary replace old battery |
| #45 | No 230 V operating voltage, 230 V fuse defective, Overheating protection has been triggered | Restore 230 V operating voltage |
| #112 | Gas cylinder empty | Replacing a gas cylinder |
All the following can be linked to Gas flow issues
| #112, #121, #122, #202, #211, #212 |
Gas cylinder empty Gas cylinder or quick-acting valve in the gas supply line closed Gas pressure regulation system iced up Butane content in the gas cylinder too high Combustion air infeed or exhaust outlet is sealed Gas pressure regulation system faulty |
Replacing a gas cylinder Check gas supply and open valves Use regulator heater (EisEx) Use propane. Butane is unsuitable for heating, particularly at temperatures lower than 10 °C. Inspect openings for obstructions (slush, ice, leaves, etc.) and remove any obstructions Inspect / replace gas pressure regulation system |
| Fault Code | Cause | Remedy |
|---|---|---|
| #255 | Heater has no 12 V power supply No connection between heater and control panel | Ensure 12 V power supply |
| Fault Code | Cause | Remedy |
|---|---|---|
| #255 | Heater has no 12 V power supply No connection between heater and control panel | Ensure 12 V power supply |
| #301 | Overvoltage > 16.4 V | Check battery voltage / voltage sources such as the charger |
| #417 | Overvoltage > 16.4 V | Check battery voltage / voltage sources such as the charger |
| #302 | Low voltage. Battery voltage is too low < 10.0 V | Charge battery. If necessary replace old battery |
| #418 | Low voltage. Battery voltage is too low < 10.0 V | Charge battery. If necessary replace old battery |
| #303 | Risk of low voltage. Battery voltage is too low < 10.4 V | Charge battery |
| #411 | Risk of low voltage. Battery voltage is too low < 10.4 V | Charge battery |
| #401 | Summer mode with empty water container | Switch heater off and allow to cool. Fill boiler with water |
| #402 | Warm air temperature exceeded: - Not all warm air ducts are connected - Warm air outlets blocked - Circulated air intake blocked | - Check whether the 4 warm air ducts are connected |
| #407 | No 230 V operating voltage 230 V fuse defective Overheating protection has been triggered | Restore 230 V operating voltage |
| #412 | Open window above cowl (window switch) | Close window. |
All the following can be linked to Gas flow issues
| #507, #516, #517 |
Gas cylinder empty Gas cylinder or quick-acting valve in the gas supply line closed Gas pressure regulation system iced up Butane content in the gas cylinder too high Combustion air infeed or exhaust outlet is sealed Gas pressure regulation system faulty |
Replacing a gas cylinder Check gas supply and open valves Use regulator heater (EisEx) Use propane. Butane is unsuitable for heating, particularly at temperatures lower than 10 °C. Inspect openings for obstructions (slush, ice, leaves, etc.) and remove any obstructions Inspect / replace gas pressure regulation system |
| Fault Code | Cause | Remedy |
|---|---|---|
| #607 | Max. number of fault resets reached | Wait 15 minutes and reset fault |
| #621 | Room temperature sensor or cable faulty | Inspect the room temperature sensor cable, replace if faulty |
| #624 | Frost Control heating element has a short circuit | Disconnect heating element plug from electronic control unit. Replace heating element |
| Fault Code | Cause | Remedy |
|---|---|---|
| #111 | Room temperature sensor or cable faulty | Inspect the room temperature sensor cable, replace if faulty |
| #122 | Lack of fuel due to insufficient fuel tank filling, tank has run empty and / or vehicle is on a slope | Fill tank with fuel. Then fill the fuel line as described in “Initial startup” (see Combi Diesel operating instructions). |
| #132 | Frost Control heating element has a short circuit | Disconnect heating element plug from electronic control unit. Replace heating element |
| #150 | Warm air temperature exceeded: - Not all warm air ducts are connected - Warm air outlets blocked - Circulated air intake blocked | - Check whether the 4 warm air ducts are connected |
| #151 | Water temperature exceeded in winter mode: Water temperature sensor excessive temperature Warm air outlets blocked Circulated air intake blocked | Switch off appliance and allow it to cool down. Fill boiler with water |
| #152 | Water temperature exceeded in summer mode: Water temperature sensor excessive temperature Warm air outlets blocked Circulated air intake blocked | Switch off appliance and allow it to cool down. Fill boiler with water |
| #160 | Undervoltage < 10.2 V | Check battery voltage, charge if necessary |
| #161 | Overvoltage > 16.4 V | Check battery voltage / voltage sources such as the charger |
| #162 | Open window above cowl (window switch) | Close window. |
| #164 | No 230 V operating voltage 230 V fuse defective Overheating protection has been triggered | Restore 230 V operating voltage |
| #255 | Heater has no 12 V power supply No connection between heater and control panell | Ensure 12 V power supply |
| Fault Code | Cause | Remedy |
|---|---|---|
| #1 | Failure (short circuit or broken cable), room temperature sensor | Contact Truma Service |
| #2 | Ice sensor (inside) triggered | Inspect the filter and replace it if necessary |
| #4 | Ice sensor (outside) triggered | Keep the air inlets / outlets on the roof free of obstructions such as leaves |
| #8 | IR receiver unplugged or cable broken | Check the connection of the IR receiver |
| #17 | Voltage drop at 230 V power supply | Check 230 V power supply |
List of popular stopover points, often small pubs, where you can stay for free or a nominal fee, typically with the expectation that you'll patronize their establishment.
(Alway phone before arriving)
The Xcent X 422 controller manual which is often installed into most Roller Team motorhomes between 2020 - 2023.
The Xcent F 285 controller manual which is often installed into most Roller Team motorhomes between 2020 - 2023.
The Cobra 4600 manual is a frequently utilized reference guide found in numerous motorhomes.
The Cobra 4600 installation manual.
The Cobra 4600 Function Table.
The Cobra quick reference.
Ficosa Mirror supplier - as much as these do not mention Roller Team by name, they do a wide range and a simular unit may be found.
Gemini 931T MH Alarm system manual, often fitted to motorhomes.
Throughout the years, I've cultivated a delightful collection of travel gadgets that have significantly enhanced my journeys. Interestingly, these handy companions have not only elevated my own adventures but have also proven to be incredibly beneficial to fellow travelers who discovered their value. If you're curious to explore some of these ingenious travel aids the click button below
If you discover that you can hear those knives, forks, and spoons rattling about as you drive, give these little tricks a try.
If you find those plates annoying, give this a try.
Glasses can not only rattle but also risk breaking.
The cookers in motorhomes tend not to get as hot as your cooker at home, so give your cooking about 10% extra time.
Keep your meals simple and easy to prepare. One-pot dishes, stir-fries, and grilled items are great options. Preparing ingredients in advance can save time.
Invest in compact and stackable cookware to save space. Look for pots, pans, and utensils designed for Motorhomes or small kitchens.
Put some of that foam pipe lagging on the ends of the cooking shelves, this will avoid them rattling when you travel.
The initial decision to make is whether to opt for a gas or electric kettle. This choice will primarily depend on whether you plan to camp at sites with electric hook-up (EHU) or prefer a more off-grid, wild camping approach.
Regardless of your choice, it's advisable not to purchase an oversized kettle. Keep in mind that the average cup of tea is around 300ml, so a kettle with a capacity greater than 1 litre should suffice. Using a larger kettle, whether heated by gas or electric, will consume more energy than necessary.
Air fryers can be a fantastic addition to your travel equipment. They are highly versatile and can help you save money by reducing reliance on a gas-hungry cooker. It's important to note that air fryers need access to electricity, typically on campsites with electric hook-ups (EHU).
The initial decision to make is whether to choose a gas-powered or electric-powered appliance. This choice will largely depend on whether you plan to camp at sites with electric hook-up (EHU) or prefer a more off-grid, wilderness camping approach.
When selecting a TV for your motorhome, it's crucial to think about your viewing preferences and habits. In today's digital age, you have various ways to access content, such as streaming, terrestrial channels, satellite, or media players. Additionally, consider whether you want the option to watch TV when not connected to electric hook-up (12v capability). Finally, think about the size of the TV, as it should be proportionate to your available space and viewing comfort. Taking all these factors into account will help ensure an enjoyable and convenient TV viewing experience in your motorhome.
Indeed, if you opt for a traditional TV setup with an antenna, it can work well in many situations. However, before proceeding with this approach, it's wise to take the following factors into account:
Terrestrial and satellite TV options may not always be available or reliable in every country or location, while mobile and Wi-Fi coverage is steadily improving. It's important to acknowledge that terrestrial TV is still valuable and will remain relevant for years to come. However, in an era where most content is accessible via the internet, investing in a high-quality, internet-enabled TV can be a wise decision for a more versatile and future-proof entertainment experience.
The adage "buy good, buy once" holds true when selecting technology for your motorhome.
Opting for a well-known brand is a sound strategy when selecting a TV for your motorhome. Some lower-end models may have limited smart connectivity and infrequent updates, which can limit your access to various app services. As of my last knowledge update, brands like Avtex, Sharp, Ferguson, and Cello are among the top contenders for motorhome TVs. In particular, the Sharp TV stands out for its robust smart view menu, offering access to a wide range of content. I found a personal favorite in the Sharp TV for my motorhome and entertainment needs.
Using Velcro to attach a remote control to an appliance, such as a TV, can be a convenient and practical way to keep it accessible and organized. Velcro strips provide a secure and easily adjustable method for mounting the remote control, and it can indeed help prevent misplacement or loss. Here's a breakdown of the advantages and considerations:
In conclusion, using Velcro to attach remote controls to appliances can be a practical and versatile solution for keeping them organized and accessible. It's particularly useful for maintaining multiple remotes in different locations, such as next to the bed or while traveling. Just be mindful of the aesthetic and maintenance considerations associated with using Velcro.
If you have an old mobile phone (not that old Nokia 3110), don't throw it away or sell it for peanuts, there is still life in the old dog.
Using an old mobile phone as a mobile router with a data SIM card is indeed a creative and cost-effective way to repurpose old technology. While it may not offer the same features and performance as high-end mobile routers, it can still be a useful solution in certain situations, such as when traveling in a motorhome or in areas with limited internet access.
This allows everyone to share the same data plan and with a bit of creative setup it can allow you to transition seamlessly from your home to your motorhome with wireless connectivity, without the need to re-setup.
These days it has become standard for nearly all mobile phone networks to allow tethering within there contract. Obviously you need to check your data plan and make certain you will not run out of data or be charged for this, but assuming that you have this part covered. It can be a great way to connect all those devices to the internet without having to take out another data plan and if your lucky to be in a good 5G area you will be amazed at the speeds you can get (assuming you have a 5G device and contract).
If it's your first time at using these your soon know that they can be a absolute nightmare to get up and the fear of going too far is looming. So, between the wheel spins to get up to the shooting over the top, I have put together a few tips.
Don't buy cheap, a good set will last years, Fiamma are a proven name.
Anti-slip plates can help to avoid them sliding away.
Don't be too afraid, you need to drive up to them, don't try to just climb them.
Always try to have someone watching. This will really help.
My final and best tip. Download a levelling app on your phone. Find a level place to sit your phone on the dash, then as you’re going up the ramps you will know at what point is best for level, it will save you stopping and starting several times.
Find the ramp for you read more. Levelling Block Types
These are by far the easiast way to level, but come with a big price tag.